How do I sell jewelry to Spectra Fine Jewelry?

Send photos and any documentation (lab reports, receipts, provenance) to info@spectrafinejewelry.com. Lawrence Paul will respond within one business day. If he's interested, you'll meet in person at the office at 44 West 47th Street, New York, or arrange shipping. No appraisal fee, no obligation.

What kind of jewelry does Spectra buy?

Spectra buys signed vintage jewelry (Cartier, Van Cleef, Bulgari, Harry Winston), natural fancy color diamonds, unheated Kashmir and Ceylon sapphires, unheated Burma rubies, Colombian emeralds with minor or no oil, Paraíba tourmaline, and vivid spinel. GIA reports for diamonds; SSEF or Gübelin for colored stones.

Is selling to a dealer better than auction?

It depends on the piece. Auction works well for trophy lots with international demand. But auction carries 10–15% seller's commission, a 4–6 month wait, and uncertainty about sell-through. A dealer pays immediately with no commission. The tradeoff is the dealer needs a margin. For most sellers with a single significant piece, the certainty and speed of a dealer sale is the better outcome.

Sell Your Jewelry | Spectra Fine Jewelry — NYC Diamond District Buyer

If you have a piece of fine jewelry, a signed estate piece, or a rare gemstone you're thinking about selling — I want to see it.

I'm Lawrence Paul, president of Spectra Fine Jewelry. I've been buying and selling on 47th Street for 35 years. I buy directly, pay quickly, and don't waste your time with lowball offers or unnecessary back-and-forth.

What I Buy

I buy selectively, which means when I make an offer, it's a real one. These are the categories I'm actively seeking:

Signed Vintage Jewelry

Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Harry Winston, JAR, Boucheron, Tiffany Schlumberger, David Webb — from the 1920s through the 1990s. Condition matters less than authenticity and design integrity. I'm looking for pieces that are genuinely signed, not just attributed.

Fancy Color Diamonds

Natural pink, blue, orange, and red diamonds. Argyle pinks are of particular interest. I want GIA reports, I want natural color, and I want no treatments. Size matters — 1 carat and up, but exceptional stones at any size get my attention.

Unheated Sapphires and Rubies

Kashmir, Ceylon, and Burma sapphires with no-heat documentation from SSEF or Gübelin. Burma rubies, same standard. If you have a SSEF or Gübelin report and it says "no indications of heating," call me.

Colombian and Zambian Emeralds

Colombian origin with minor or no oil — SSEF, Gübelin, or AGL reports only. I'm also interested in fine Zambian material. Brazilian and synthetic: pass.

Paraíba Tourmaline and Spinel

Copper-bearing Paraíba with strong neon color. Vivid Mahenge, Mogok, or Luc Yen spinel in 5 carats and up.

What I Don't Buy

I'll save us both time: I don't buy commercial diamond jewelry, fashion jewelry, sterling silver, or anything mass-produced. I don't buy lab-grown stones. I don't buy unsigned estate pieces that aren't exceptional on their own terms. And I don't buy treated fancy color diamonds or heated colored stones represented as unheated.

How the Process Works

Send me photos and whatever documentation you have — lab reports, original receipts, provenance if you have it. I'll respond within one business day. If I'm interested, we'll arrange to see the piece in person at our office in the Diamond District, or discuss shipping options if you're outside New York.

There's no appraisal fee, no obligation, and no pressure. If I want it, I'll make you an offer on the spot.

Email: info@spectrafinejewelry.com
Phone: 212-354-3456
Office: 44 West 47th Street, Suite GF1, New York, NY 10036

Why Sell to a Dealer Instead of Auction?

Auction is the right answer for certain pieces — trophy lots with genuine international demand, where the right two bidders in the room can push a result 30% above estimate. I've been on that side of the transaction too.

But auction has costs. Seller's commission typically runs 10–15% of the hammer price at the major houses. Your piece may sit for four to six months waiting for the right sale. If it doesn't sell — and sell-through rates on jewelry at auction are rarely what the houses advertise — you get it back having paid for photography, insurance, and transport.

When I buy, I pay immediately. There's no commission, no waiting, no uncertainty about whether a buyer shows up. The tradeoff is that I need to buy at a price that allows me to hold the piece and eventually sell it at a profit. I'm transparent about that. What I offer is certainty and speed in exchange for the upside of an auction result.

For most sellers — especially those with a single significant piece rather than a collection — that's the better deal.

A Note on Appraisals

Insurance appraisals and replacement-value appraisals are not market value. An appraisal that says your ring is worth $45,000 means it would cost $45,000 to replace it at retail — it doesn't mean the ring will sell for $45,000. The resale market for jewelry is consistently, structurally lower than replacement value. I'll give you an honest read on what your piece is worth in the current market, which is more useful than a number designed for an insurance company.